Karlovy Vary, the spa town hidden in the middle of Czech Bohemia

The charming Czech town of Karlovy Vary

Healthy mineral springs for adults, rose baths with milk-infused mineral water, sparkling fountains for kids… it sounds like a fairy-tale, doesn’t it? Yet all of this exists in the rather charming Czech town of Karlovy Vary. And yes, the pastel-coloured buildings and chic boutiques make it unforgettable. Well, you might also encounter the occasional mischievous member of staff—but alright, that’s all part of the charm and absolutely worth the visit.

Now let’s start from the beginning. You can sip mineral water right from the colonnades where Ludwig van Beethoven once walked. But be careful! Each spring has its own temperature, and drinking them follows strict medical advice—you should do it only three times a day. So, enjoy the mineral springs properly.

And afterwards? Well, you can grab a bit of Czech Becherovka, the herbal liqueur created in the early 19th century by pharmacist Josef Becher. You can’t live healthy all your life, can you? Besides, it was originally created for digestive health purposes—so technically one might say it’s medical. Karlovy vary was a famous resort in soviet times, yet for centuries, European aristocrats, writers, and musicians also came here to drink, relax, and socialise in elegant salons. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe was a regular visitor; Beethoven strolled the same colonnades guests walk today.

My two-year-old daughter even grabbed one with a cat on it and happily sipped the warm water. Already a little traveller on her tenth trip, she clearly knows how to enjoy life. She was mesmerised by the fountains, the pigeons, and the gentle steam rising from the springs—watching everything quietly, completely absorbed.

Founded in the 14th century by Charles IV, the town’s story began almost by accident: while hunting, one of the emperor’s dogs jumped into a steaming pool—and emerged healed. Charles IV realised the spring had special powers and built a settlement around it. So here is where the name of the town comes from. Today, the powerful Vřídlo Geyser erupts in the centre of town, sending hot mineral water high into the air (12 metres)- a dramatic reminder that Karlovy Vary exists because of what lies beneath the ground.

Life here revolves around the springs. There are more than eighty, though only about fifteen are used for the traditional drinking cure. Visitors wander slowly from colonnade to colonnade, sipping from the town’s iconic porcelain spa cups—tiny teapot-shaped vessels made for hot mineral water.

For adults, indulgence takes a rather romantic turn. In one spa house I soaked in a warm mineral bath scented with roses—a moment so theatrical it felt like stepping straight into La vie en rose. By the way, we were there on our third anniversary, which made it even more special. So, keep that in mind if you’re ever planning an anniversary escape.

And then there are the little surprises. We found a tiny restaurant in the centre where Armenian music was playing. The singer was quite impressive, effortlessly switching between several languages during the evening. Can you imagine the tip the singer received from a generous Armenian man? Hehe… let’s just say we had a brilliant time. Of course, if you fancy something more formal, you can always dress up and head to a Michelin-star restaurant instead.

Have you ever heard of Czech crystal? You can find Czech crystal sets in boutiques, though let’s be honest—it’s not exactly cheap. Browsing these shops feels like walking through the town’s history. Yet modern life sneaks in too: many stores display “liquidation” or closing-sale signs, adding a slightly quirky twist to the town’s character.

Every summer, Karlovy Vary transforms during the Karlovy Vary International Film Festival. From a quiet spa-town it suddenly becomes a red-carpet stage for directors, actors, and film lovers from across the globe. Yet the town’s slow rhythm somehow remains. People still stroll the colonnades with porcelain cups, sip mineral water, and pause to watch steam rising from the springs.

Perhaps that is the true magic of Karlovy Vary: a place where history, health, and everyday life quietly intertwine—where a child delights in fountains, an adult relaxes in a rose-scented bath, enjoying his dream of a healthy calm adulthood, and even a simple walk between springs becomes part of a centuries-old tradition. And if you leave with a porcelain cup in your bag and a bit of Becherovka in your system—well, you probably did Karlovy Vary exactly right. By the way, it’s only one hour drive from Vaclav Havel international airport Prague.

Sona Aghbalyan
Journalist/Reporter