The giant jar of Amathus exhibited in the Louvre, Museum, France

Το γιγαντιαίο πιθάρι της Αμαθούντας που εκτίθεται στο Λούβρο στο Παρίσι
In March 1862, shortly before the end of Ottoman rule in Cyprus, a unique jar (creation of maybe 6th century) that adorned the kingdom of Amathus, loaded from the archaeological site in Cyprus onto a ship for France. Since then, the colossal jar has adorned the Louvre Museum. (In the picture: Chryso Christoforou).
Τον Μάρτιο του 1862, λίγο πριν το τέλος της οθωμανικής κυριαρχίας στην Κύπρο, ένα σπάνιο πιθάρι (δημιούργημα ίσως του 6ου αι. π.Χ.) στον αρχαιολογικό χώρο που κοσμούσε το βασίλειο της Αμαθούντας, φορτώθηκε σε ένα πλοίο με προορισμό τη Γαλλία. Έκτοτε, το μοναδικής αξίας πιθάρι της Αμαθούντας κοσμεί το Μουσείο του Λούβρου. (Στη φωτογραφία η Χρύσω Χριστοφόρου).

Bayonne and Biarritz cities in France

Snapshots by Pascal Nicolaïdès

Klara, Anne Marie Nicolaïdès, Sophi and Frédéric in Bayonne, a city in the Basque Country region of southwest France, where the Nive and Adour rivers meet. Narrow medieval streets characterize the old Grand Bayonne district.
Η Κλάρα, Άννη Μαρί Νικολαΐδης, Σόφη και Φρεντερίκ στη Bayonne, μια πόλη στην περιοχή της Χώρας των Βάσκων της νοτιοδυτικής Γαλλίας, όπου συναντώνται οι ποταμοί Nive και Adour. Στενά μεσαιωνικά δρομάκια χαρακτηρίζουν την παλιά συνοικία Grand Bayonne.

Bayonne lies at the confluence of multiple cultures, the ocean and the mountains, history and the future. But life here takes place in the present, along the waterfront. The stream and river run effortlessly through thousand-year-old streets lined with urban murals by famous street artists, from the Bayonne History and Basque Museum to the bridges of Bayonne that are favoured by fishermen when the tide is right.
Το Bayonne βρίσκεται στη συμβολή πολλών πολιτισμών, του ωκεανού και των βουνών, της ιστορίας και του μέλλοντος. Αλλά η ζωή εδώ λαμβάνει χώρα στο παρόν, κατά μήκος της προκυμαίας. Το ρέμα και το ποτάμι διασχίζουν αβίαστα δρόμους χιλιάδων ετών γεμάτους με αστικές τοιχογραφίες διάσημων καλλιτεχνών του δρόμου, από την ιστορία της Μπαγιόν και το μουσείο των Βάσκων μέχρι τις γέφυρες της Μπαγιόν που προτιμούν οι ψαράδες όταν η παλίρροια είναι σωστή.

Bayonne has a special blend of colours, art and history, character and passion. It is a masterpiece that recalls the remarkable works housed in the Bonnat-Helleu fine arts museum, boasting a collection that is unparalleled between Paris and Madrid. Bayonne is an epicentre of nuances, engraved in stone, that shapes a personality that is unequivocally plural and yet so singular.
Το Bayonne έχει ένα ιδιαίτερο μείγμα χρωμάτων, τέχνης και ιστορίας, χαρακτήρα και πάθους. Είναι ένα αριστούργημα που θυμίζει τα αξιόλογα έργα που φιλοξενούνται στο μουσείο καλών τεχνών Bonnat-Helleu, με μια συλλογή που είναι απαράμιλλη ανάμεσα στο Παρίσι και τη Μαδρίτη. Το Bayonne είναι ένα επίκεντρο αποχρώσεων, χαραγμένο στην πέτρα, που διαμορφώνει μια προσωπικότητα που είναι ξεκάθαρα πληθωρική και όμως τόσο μοναδική.

Frédéric, Klara, Anne Marie Nicolaïdès, Sophi and Pascal Nicolaïdès, in Biarritz, an elegant seaside town on southwestern France’s Basque coast, has been a popular resort since European royalty began visiting in the 1800s. It’s also a major surfing destination, with long sandy beaches and surf schools.
Ο Φρεντερίκ, Κλάρα, Άννη Μαρί Νικολαΐδης, Σόφη και Πασκάλ Νικολαΐδης στη Biarritz, μια κομψή παραθαλάσσια πόλη στη νοτιοδυτική γαλλική ακτή των Βάσκων, ήταν ένα δημοφιλές θέρετρο από τότε που άρχισαν να επισκέπτονται οι ευρωπαίοι βασιλείς το 1800. Είναι επίσης ένας σημαντικός προορισμός για σέρφινγκ, με μεγάλες αμμώδεις παραλίες και σχολές σέρφινγκ.

Biarritz is a city on the Bay of Biscay, on the Atlantic coast in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques department in the French Basque Country in southwestern France. It is located 35 kilometres from the border with Spain. It is a luxurious seaside tourist destination known for the Hôtel du Palais (originally built for the Empress Eugénie c. 1855), its casinos in front of the sea, and its surfing culture. In the picture: Anne Marie and Pascal Nicolaïdès.

Το Biarritz είναι μια πόλη στον Βισκαϊκό Κόλπο, στις ακτές του Ατλαντικού στο διαμέρισμα Pyrénées-Atlantiques στη γαλλική Χώρα των Βάσκων στη νοτιοδυτική Γαλλία. Βρίσκεται 35 χιλιόμετρα από τα σύνορα με την Ισπανία. Είναι ένας πολυτελής παραθαλάσσιος τουριστικός προορισμός γνωστός για το Hôtel du Palais (αρχικά χτισμένο για την αυτοκράτειρα Eugénie γύρω στο 1855), τα καζίνο του μπροστά στη θάλασσα και την κουλτούρα του σερφ. Στη φωτογραφία η Άννη Μαρί και Πασκάλ Νικολαΐδης.

A symbol of Biarritz, the Rocher de la Vierge is a rocky outcrop topped with a statue of the Virgin Mary. Reached via footbridge, it offers sweeping views of the Bay of Biscay.
Ένα σύμβολο του Biarritz, το Rocher de la Vierge είναι μια βραχώδης προεξοχή στην κορυφή του οποίου υπάρχει ένα άγαλμα της Παναγίας. Μπορείτε να φτάσετε μέσω πεζογέφυρας και προσφέρει εκπληκτική θέα στον Βισκαϊκό Κόλπο.

With one foot in the Atlantic and the other in the mountains, Biarritz and the Pays Basque it’s exhilarating place to visit. Memorial to the Armenian Genocide.

Με το ένα πόδι στον Ατλαντικό και το άλλο στα βουνά, το Biarritz και τη Χώρα των Βάσκων είναι ένα συναρπαστικό μέρος για να επισκεφθείτε. Το Μνημείο για την Αρμενική Γενοκτονία.

Sulina – the multi-confessional cemetery - Romania

By Ștefan Baciu

River and maritime port, Sulina is the easternmost city of Romania and the European Union
Σουλίνα – το πολυομολογιακό νεκροταφείο Ποτάμι και θαλάσσιο λιμάνι, η Sulina είναι η ανατολικότερη πόλη της Ρουμανίας και της Ευρωπαϊκής Ένωσης

It is located on the right bank of the Danube and became a summer tourist attraction in the 70s of the last century for those who wanted to discover the beauties of the Danube Delta and at the same time enjoy the wild beach, with very fine sand, from the Black Sea.
Βρίσκεται στη δεξιά όχθη του Δούναβη και έγινε καλοκαιρινό τουριστικό αξιοθέατο τη δεκαετία του '70 του περασμένου αιώνα για όσους ήθελαν να ανακαλύψουν τις ομορφιές του Δέλτα του Δούναβη και ταυτόχρονα να απολαύσουν την άγρια παραλία, με πολύ ψιλή άμμο, από τη Μαύρη Θάλασσα.

The historical buildings of Sulina remind of the city's heyday when the headquarters of the so-called European Commission of the Danube were located here, which had the role of ensuring the navigation of all vessels on the Danube, regardless of flag, according to the Treaty of Paris from 1856. for the navigation of the middle arm of the Danube was a complex project, carried out in several stages and coordinated by the English engineer Charles Hartley, also a consultant in the Suez Canal project.

Τα ιστορικά κτίρια της Sulina θυμίζουν την εποχή της ακμής της πόλης, όταν εδώ βρισκόταν η έδρα της λεγόμενης Ευρωπαϊκής Επιτροπής του Δούναβη, η οποία είχε τον ρόλο να διασφαλίσει τη ναυσιπλοΐα όλων των πλοίων στον Δούναβη, ανεξαρτήτως σημαίας, σύμφωνα με τη Συνθήκη. του Παρισιού από το 1856. για τη ναυσιπλοΐα του μεσαίου βραχίονα του Δούναβη ήταν ένα σύνθετο έργο, που πραγματοποιήθηκε σε διάφορα στάδια και συντονίστηκε από τον Άγγλο μηχανικό Charles Hartley, επίσης σύμβουλο στο έργο της Διώρυγας του Σουέζ.

In the second half of the 19th century, consulates, shipowners' and merchants' offices functioned in Sulina, big business was done, especially with grain, and the town had become prosperous. In the buildings on the wharf, on the right bank of the Danube, there were, of course, also many pubs. Many of the old buildings of Sulina disappeared during the communist period, being replaced by blocks of flats. For visitors, in addition to the old buildings that have been preserved, including that of the headquarters of the European Commission of the Danube, the multi-confessional cemetery is also an attraction, testimony to the cosmopolitan life of Sulina in the past. It was established in 1864 and was administered by the European Commission of the Danube. Businessmen, princesses, women of legend, pirates, sailors, locals and adventurers from all over the world sleep their eternal sleep here, in a common cemetery for all religions.

Στο δεύτερο μισό του 19ου αιώνα λειτουργούσαν στη Σουλίνα προξενεία, γραφεία εφοπλιστών και εμπόρων, γίνονταν μεγάλες δουλειές, κυρίως με σιτηρά, και η πόλη είχε ευημερήσει. Στα κτίρια στην προβλήτα, στη δεξιά όχθη του Δούναβη, υπήρχαν φυσικά και πολλές παμπ. Πολλά από τα παλιά κτίρια της Σουλίνα εξαφανίστηκαν κατά την κομμουνιστική περίοδο και αντικαταστάθηκαν από πολυκατοικίες. Για τους επισκέπτες, εκτός από τα παλιά κτίρια που έχουν διατηρηθεί, συμπεριλαμβανομένου του κεντρικού γραφείου της Ευρωπαϊκής Επιτροπής του Δούναβη, το πολυομολογιακό νεκροταφείο αποτελεί και αξιοθέατο, μαρτυρία της κοσμοπολίτικης ζωής της Sulina στο παρελθόν. Ιδρύθηκε το 1864 και διοικούνταν από την Ευρωπαϊκή Επιτροπή του Δούναβη. Επιχειρηματίες, πριγκίπισσες, γυναίκες του θρύλου, πειρατές, ναυτικοί, ντόπιοι και τυχοδιώκτες από όλο τον κόσμο κοιμούνται τον αιώνιο ύπνο τους εδώ, σε ένα κοινό νεκροταφείο για όλες τις θρησκείες.

Valentin Lavric, teacher in Sulina and member of the Discover Sulina Association, an organization that promotes this tourist destination, presents visitors with the stories of the many people who sleep their eternal sleep in this cemetery with areas reserved for Catholics, Protestants, Jews, Turks, Lipovian Russians and Orthodox , mostly Greeks and Romanians. In the Orthodox area you can also see the grave of a pirate from Sulina, as I learned from Valentin Lavric: "The most wanted monument, the Pirate Monument. His name is Gheorghios Kontogouris who was an "areistos politeisis". that is, say he was a good citizen, Normal, if you take from the rich and give to the poor, a kind of Robin Hood, the world appreciated him! Born in Kefalonia, he lives for 33 years and dies in Sulina, on March 25, the national day of Greece, the Annunciation.
Ο Valentin Lavric, δάσκαλος στη Σουλίνα και μέλος του Discover Sulina Association, μιας οργάνωσης που προωθεί αυτόν τον τουριστικό προορισμό, παρουσιάζει στους επισκέπτες τις ιστορίες πολλών ανθρώπων που κοιμούνται τον αιώνιο ύπνο τους σε αυτό το νεκροταφείο με χώρους προορισμένους για Καθολικούς, Προτεστάντες, Εβραίους, Τούρκους , Λιπόβιοι Ρώσοι και Ορθόδοξοι, κυρίως Έλληνες και Ρουμάνοι. Στην ορθόδοξη περιοχή μπορείτε επίσης να δείτε τον τάφο ενός πειρατή από τη Sulina, όπως έμαθα από τον Valentin Lavric: «Το πιο περιζήτητο μνημείο, το μνημείο των πειρατών. Ονομάζεται Γεώργιος Κοντογούρης που ήταν «άρειστος πολιτικός». δηλαδή ας πούμε ήταν καλός πολίτης, Κανονικός, αν πάρεις από τους πλούσιους και δώσεις στους φτωχούς, ένα είδος Ρομπέν των Δασών, τον εκτίμησε ο κόσμος! Γεννημένος στην Κεφαλονιά, ζει 33 χρόνια και πεθαίνει στη Σουλίνα, στις 25 Μαρτίου, εθνική εορτή της Ελλάδας, του Ευαγγελισμού της Θεοτόκου.

The tomb is erected by the adelphos, that is, by his brother Grigorios. At the feet we see the skull and also the bones of the leg, being in this way attested the only pirate grave in Europe. How was piracy done then? I was telling you about the ox. He was walking with his pet on the beach, he would put a wooden stick between its horns with some lanterns hanging from it. Offshore ships could see lights moving, they said it was a port maneuver, meaning there was enough depth. They went full speed ahead and ran aground on the sandbar. That's why there were no fights like in the Caribbean or I know in the novel "All Sails Up", but this time there was some kind of robbery on the shore. In this way it seems that he got rich because we will also see his brother's tomb, which is much bigger, more imposing."
Τον τάφο τον έφτιαξε ο αδελφός του Γρηγόριος. Στα πόδια βλέπουμε το κρανίο αλλά και τα οστά του ποδιού, που μαρτυρείται έτσι ο μοναδικός πειρατικός τάφος στην Ευρώπη. Πώς γινόταν τότε η πειρατεία; Σου έλεγα για το βόδι. Περπατούσε με το κατοικίδιό του στην παραλία, έβαζε ένα ξύλινο ραβδί ανάμεσα στα κέρατά του με μερικά φαναράκια να κρέμονται από αυτό. Τα υπεράκτια πλοία μπορούσαν να δουν τα φώτα να κινούνται, είπαν ότι ήταν ελιγμός στο λιμάνι, που σημαίνει ότι υπήρχε αρκετό βάθος. Προχώρησαν ολοταχώς και προσάραξαν στην άμμο. Γι' αυτό δεν έγιναν καβγάδες όπως στην Καραϊβική ή ξέρω στο μυθιστόρημα «Όλα τα πανιά επάνω», αλλά αυτή τη φορά έγινε κάποιου είδους ληστεία στην ακτή. Με αυτόν τον τρόπο φαίνεται ότι πλούτισε γιατί θα δούμε και τον τάφο του αδελφού του, που είναι πολύ μεγαλύτερος, πιο επιβλητικός».

In 1871, the year of the disappearance of the pirate Gheorghios Kontogouris, the lighthouse that showed ships the way to Sulina port had just been put into operation. Today it is known as the Old Lighthouse and is located far from the seashore, inside the small town located at the confluence of the Danube and the Black Sea. Every year, the land advances by a few meters due to the alluvium that the Danube brings and deposits around the mouths of the sea. Moreover, due to this phenomenon, a strip of land was formed between the Sulina and Chilia arms, which became a nesting place for many birds. It is a strictly protected area, which can be admired by tourists only from a distance, from the boat with which they travel, on excursions, on the canals and lakes of the Danube Delta.

Το 1871, έτος της εξαφάνισης του πειρατή Γεώργιου Κοντογούρη, μόλις είχε τεθεί σε λειτουργία ο φάρος που έδειχνε στα πλοία το δρόμο προς το λιμάνι της Σουλίνας. Σήμερα είναι γνωστός ως Παλιός Φάρος και βρίσκεται μακριά από την ακτή, μέσα στη μικρή πόλη που βρίσκεται στη συμβολή του Δούναβη με τη Μαύρη Θάλασσα. Κάθε χρόνο η στεριά προχωρά κατά μερικά μέτρα λόγω των προσχώσεων που φέρνει ο Δούναβης και εναποθέτει γύρω από τις εκβολές της θάλασσας. Εξάλλου, λόγω αυτού του φαινομένου, σχηματίστηκε μια λωρίδα γης μεταξύ των βραχιόνων Sulina και Chilia, η οποία έγινε τόπος φωλιάς για πολλά πουλιά. Είναι μια αυστηρά προστατευόμενη περιοχή, την οποία μπορούν να θαυμάσουν οι τουρίστες μόνο από απόσταση, από το σκάφος με το οποίο ταξιδεύουν, στις εκδρομές, στα κανάλια και τις λίμνες του Δέλτα του Δούναβη.
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Realizator at Radio Romania International
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Sulina – Romania, the dying town in the Danube Delta

Snapshots by Stefan Baciu

The Sulina town in Romania, brings sweet memories and nostalgia to Stefan Baciu.

Stefan Baciu in the streets of Sulina town. April 26, 2024

Today I arrived at Sulina, the place where my parents used to come on vacation in the 70s. I arrived at the countryside and in front of the building where a restaurant used to operate where, after a week of eating only fish, the mutton soup that I would never have eaten before seemed extremely good. We arrived in front of the historic building of the European Commission of the Danube. The night before I saw the old lighthouse again, which is now inside the city because the seashore advances every year by a few meters to the sea. Incredible, I also saw the ship Moldova, on which I came to Sulina with my parents and their best friends!

Sulina, the only town in the Danube Delta, is a small place at the mouth of the Danube, the easternmost locality of Romania, and since 1 January 2007, of the European Union.

The "city" is actually built on a narrow tongue of land between the Danube and the Black Sea; surrounded by water, it has no land connection to neighbouring localities.

The Old Lighthouse in Sulina, built at the beginning of the 19th century by the Ottoman authorities, administrated in the period 1897-1939 by the European Commission of the Danube, became a museum in 2003. The exhibition shows, through documents and photos, the history of Sulina in the period of the European Commission of the Danube administration and the life of two outstanding personalities connected with this town: the conductor George Georgescu and the writer Jean Bart.

Old abandoned structures lie everywhere in Sulina.

Sulina is a town and free port in Tulcea County, Northern Dobruja, Romania, at the mouth of the Sulina branch of the Danube. It is the easternmost point of Romania.

Annually, the Danube Delta attracts tourists from all over the world, being a charming place. Delta received the award for sustainable tourism in 2011 and is UNESCO's heritage.

The Port of Sulina is a Romanian port situated on the Black Sea, close to the northern border with Ukraine. Located in Sulina, it is the last city through which the Danube flows before entering the Black Sea.

The Danube Delta is the second largest river delta in Europe after the Volga Delta. It is, however, the most preserved delta in Europe, with 25 types of ecosystems. It is even listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Stepping out in Chișinău, Moldova

By Alexander YorkThe Triumphal Arch and the Government House of Moldova alongside the main Stefan cel Mare si Sfant Boulevard – or – St.Stefan Boulevard

It was a great pleasure to visit Chișinău, the capital of Moldova, a small landlocked country between eastern Romania and southern Ukraine. This brief adventure in April began 14 hours earlier when I departed Bucharest in a bygone-esque and very rustic overnight train that originates from the 1960s.

This particular journey is a story in itself, as the rickety old carriages with rows of four-bunk couchettes are an absolute must for train enthusiasts. The photographs (below) ultimately say it all, and this was a distinct step back in time. But there is one issue – it is a particularly noisy experience as the carriages continually bang and rattle in unison throughout the entire 14 hours. And when at the border crossing between Iași, a city on the Romanian side, and Ungheni in Moldova, the European-gauge bogies have to be changed over because the old Soviet tracks are wider. Hopefully the day is to come when they will be made the same.General train atmosphere on the Bucharest to Chișinău sleeper – and end stop train station

But after this rigorous maneuver and passport control we were finally in Moldova at the crack of dawn. Splendid sun-filled countryside greeted us for much of the way until finally I arrived at end stop Chișinău. Despite not having much sleep, and not knowing what to expect of this city, it was a simple 15-minute walk from the pleasing and newly restored train station to the centre.

For general orientation purposes, I soon discovered it was of high importance to make my way directly to the essential Stefan cel Mare si Sfant Boulevard, which translates as Saint Stefan Boulevard. By proceeding along this main three-kilometer central road, it led me to all my essential requirements.

Monumentul lui Ștefan cel Mare – The St. Stefan the Great monument – the symbol of Moldova

Halfway along this pleasurable promenade is the all-important and all-telling Saint Stefan the Great (1433-1504) statue standing at the Great National Assembly Square and which faces the main road. He was a prince who resisted Ottoman rule and still today this local legend is the symbol of Moldova, and theoretically is seen everywhere. If you are not sure who this individual is prior to arrival, then look at your Moldovan lei banknotes and study his portrait – then, it soon becomes obvious.

The Moldovan tourist information centre – on the St.Stefan main road

Beyond this distinct point, much else from a tourist perspective follows, and one can quickly access the sights with relative ease. There are many signposts pointing out the parliament and ministry buildings, churches, museums, theatres, university departments and so forth. The informative tourist information bureau is also on route, ideal for a chat and a complimentary map of this immediate area. Then hotels, parks, restaurants follow too. Really it was that easy to get by from the strategic Saint Stafan statue and tourist office onwards. I could not go wrong.

The Metropolitan Cathedral of Christ’s Nativity and the Cathedral Park

Time was short and I knew I was not going to manage to see it all. After observing the protector-of-the-land, it was a simple matter to merely cross the road and observe the 1830 Neo Classical Metropolitan Cathedral of Christ’s Nativity, as well as take to a local buffet and enjoy elevenses in this delightfully green and shady park. Close by is the Triumphal Arch, which directly faces the European Union and Moldovan flag-waving Government House. All finally led to my nearby hotel, south of the city centre.

Presidential Palace and State government office

That evening I met with Laurentia, a tour guide and friend, for a light supper at the La Plăcinte restaurant. This is part of a chain that is more of a local affair, slightly away from the main tourist scene and serving splendid Moldovan food at reasonable prices.

This local restaurant is a good place to step aside from the main tourist trails and find more of the local people scene

The day ended with a light stroll around the reposeful Valea Morilor Park. Remarkably this has its own “Potemkin” steps – all 192 of them, exactly the same number as in nearby Odessa. It was lovely to wind down after so much time traveling from Budapest via Bucharest and the Duna Delta, to walk around the lake and take it all in. All of which rounded off my day on a high note.

Evening atmosphere at the Valea Morilor Park

The second, and unfortunately last, day I dedicated to museums. The excelling National Museum of Ethnography and Natural History was a great start to see something of Moldovan culture and folklore. And the eloquent National Museum of Fine Arts had old-style and modern-day artworks that were most enlightening. Then before I knew it my time was up and I returned to the all-important Saint Stafan Boulevard, had lunch and caught the local Number 30 bus to the airport.

National Museum of Ethnography and Natural History I hope this local lady from the National Museum of Fine Arts will finally appreciate being included in this story.

So much happened in the quickness of time but it was good impressions all the way and I really enjoyed my time in Chișinău. With all that I saw, from some rich architectural heritage of the past two centuries to the occasional and oddball Soviet structures, it was clear there will be more to explore when it comes to next time.

Getting to Moldova is easier than ever. Many cities in Europe, including Budapest, now connect with Chișinău International Airport, and frequent buses and trains go to and from Romania which connects with Hungary. Visas no longer apply for many countries and a long weekend there comes highly recommended. I shall return for sure.

Chișinău is a smallish city with a population of about 700,000, and for now is a lesser known European capital. Although I did some research before going, there were mixed messages. I personally found Chișinău better than expected and the locals most welcoming. Yes, of course there are the decrepit tower blocks but these are common sights elsewhere too. Although there are some dismissive press reports, the city centre is very tourist-friendly, provides for all budgets and would make a comfortable, enjoyable stay for anyone.

The Hotel Chișinău

The language is Romanian but communication is easy as many people from post-1991 times speak English. There is plenty of tourist information in various languages too.

Chișinău is the most economically prosperous locality in Moldova and its largest transportation hub. Nearly a third of Moldova’s population lives within the capital’s region. Moldova has a history of wine producing and Chișinău hosts the national wine festival every October.

In recent living memory, and since Moldovan independence from the USSR in 1991, many names of streets and localities have been changed. Old Soviet communist themes were replaced by more national and appropriate ones.

Following Russian’s 2022 full-scale invasion of Ukraine, Moldova allowed more than 600,000 neighbouring refugees to cross its borders. Despite being among one of the poorer countries in Europe, Moldovans have continued to host more than 100,000 dispossessed persons fleeing today’s war zone. Many of them are in Chișinău.

President Maia Sandu – Timișoara – January 2024

On 21 May 2023, tens of thousands of Moldovans took to the streets in a large rally to support the country’s European Union membership bid, which was organised by the popular and pro-European President Maia Sandu. Moldova hopes to join the EU block by 2030.

Finally, here is a remarkable Hungarian twist that relates to the name of the Moldovan capital. It is cited by Stefan Ciobanu, (1883-1950), a Romanian historian and academic. The theory is that “Chișinău” has a similar ring to “Kisjenő”, a small town in former Hungary pre-Trianon 1920 but which today is located in western Romania, where it was finally renamed ”Chișineu-Criș” – a remarkable coincidence perhaps? This matter also requires further research and hopefully can be followed up before too long.

All Photographs – Alex York

 

Alexander York
Budapest & Beyond Blog

Pelican Paradise awaits at the Duna Delta and Black Sea

By Alexander York

Classic Delta scenery

The Duna Delta in Romania, where the locals know it as Delta Dunării, is a wonder and splendour in every sense. The greater part lies in far eastern Romania at the Black Sea, with a smaller part to the north in neighbouring Ukraine. Its surface area is some 4,152 square kilometres, of which 3,446 km2 are on the Romanian side. This unique waterfront wildernessis mostly covered by wetlands and features an intricate abundance of reeds, marshes, channels, streamlets, islands, lakes and wildlife. Furthest end stop Sulina is an international riverside border town for ships at the easternmost point of the European Union and directly facing the Black Sea. Nowadays it is easier to get to than ever before and very open to sustainable tourism.
Tulcea – the Delta and the mainland

It’s great to explore the Duna/Danube Delta with its labyrinths of canals, lighthouses and streams, all home to the largest biodiversity in the world. There are three main waterway traffic routes, the main one being the better known and more accessible 50-kilometer Tulcea to Sulina route that naturally comes with series of streamlets and canals along its sides. Here are hosted numerous species of fish and birds such as pelicans, ducks, swans, mallards, geese, herons and pheasants.

The most symbolic bird of this region is the pelican. These elegant, soaring birds have distinctive beaks and wingspans that rival albatrosses, as well as being noted for flying in formation. There are two types that are easy to come by in this region, the Great White (Pelecanus onocrotalus) and the Dalmation Pelican (Pelecanus crispus). When it comes to fish, there is plenty to consider – such as carp, pike, perch, sturgeon and mackerel, and many more.
Somewhere along the expansive Tulcea and Sulina main Duna shipping route

In addition come the less considered mammals that feature here – foxes, wild cats, otters, ermines and occasional wolves, for instance. In 1990, this abundant shrine with many long lines of poplar and willow trees prominent along the riverbanks became a UNESCO World Heritage Site with around 2,733 square kilometers of strictly protected areas.

All the while, vast, hefty cargo ships and other watercraft sail in and out from around the world along the Tulcea-Sulina channel, which is the only one of the three routes suitable for bulk ship navigation. Tulcea and Sulina also have their own tourism infrastructure as well as their local town scenes. Although Tulcea is accessible by road, river and rail, Sulina and all else around the delta are accessible only by small tugs and passenger ferries.
End Stop Sulina – where the River Duna meets the Black Sea

Thousands of birds migrate around the region from March to October, which makes the delta perfect for bird watching and taking in the silence. Needless to say, fishing plays a big part in local life, as expressed by the many suitable boats around – and the many restaurants too.
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I was at the Duna Delta some years ago and loved it, so I had no hesitation in accepting a press invitation to go again this April. This came from Stefan Baciu of FIJET Romania, which is a branch of the Fédération Internationale des Journalistes et Ecrivains du Tourisme; in English the World Federation of Travel Journalists and Writers, a professional organization. (Clubul Presei de Turism – FIJET Romania, clubpresaturism.ro)
Local fishermen
Vintage old-style scenery – Duna Delta
A typical house with traditional blue and white decoration – Sulina

While waiting to meet up with the committee in Tulcea I had a few hours to myself before my rendezvous with journalists, TV personnel and travel agents, whereupon I discovered that there are various museums which give a general introduction to this area. One is the imperialistic Casa Avramide, with excellent displays of artworks of local scenery. Then there is the Ethnography museum, which relates to traditional artefacts from bygone folklore times in this region. Finally, there was the Ecotourist museum with its fine displays of delta water-related matters. These included aquariums and an emphasis on fishing, which is an important industry for this region.

We participants eventually took an easy-going, three-hour boat ride downstream to end stop Sulina, and finally that evening we made our way to the cheerful Casa Pescarilor Hotel. This was followed by supper at the hospitable Casa Coral shoreline restaurant, where our consortium met local people related to the tourism and travel industry who gave us an in-depth take on this unique landmark.
Our Welcoming Hotel

It was clear whilst walking around and observing the 19th-century architecture that the impressive Sulina has an intriguing maritime history. That bygone time was clearly its golden era during which this small town attracted sailors, conservationists, adventurers and royalty alike from around the world. Unfortunately, many of the desirable buildings fell into disrepair during the changes of fortune that characterised the 20th century. I look forward to returning to see them back in service sometime soon, in particular the elegant Hotel Camberi.

The next day, and with my bedroom window facing the Black Sea itself, it was a pleasure to wake up to a stunning sunrise. Wild horses were gallivanting around in a nearby field, birds were singing and frogs croaking. One could also hear the distant sound of waves. Personally I had not witnessed anything like this for a long time. It was then a chance to check out this immediate area before joining the others for breakfast.

The official day began at the main Tourist Information Centre (see ARBDD – Administraţia Rezervaţiei Biosferei Delta Dunării, ddbra.ro) and Duna Eco museum. We were hosted by Florin Babadatu, the Councillor of the Reservation of the Danube Delta administration, who delivered a scientific presentation on the region’s waters, natural habitats, plant species and so forth. It’s a place definitely worth a visit.
Birdwatching awaits at the end of this canal with this delightful mini-cruiser
All aboard with the press trip committee!
Photo credit – Raftu Mitica

Our next port of call was the scenic Pensiunea Mila pension, a short walk away along the shoreline. Whist the visiting travel agents among us documented the comfortable accommodation and general amenities, it was also time to step on board the splendid “Ianca-Galati” mini cruiser – see illustration – and explore the narrow Busurca Canal, a turning off point from the main delta lane, and towards a vast open but very serene expanse of water. Here our group saw a multitude of pelicans, graceful and beautiful great white birds mingled in among the delightful, uplifting surroundings of reeds, lilies, dragonflies and much more, including a few cormorants. All of which symbolise what the Duna Delta is all about.

It’s coolness and calm as well as high adventures all the way when cruising around the Delta canals.

Situated on major migratory routes, and providing adequate conditions for nesting and hatching, the delta is a magnet for birds from six major eco-regions of the world, including the Mongolian, Arctic and Siberian. There are more than 320 species of birds found in the delta during summer, of which 166 are hatching species and 159 are migratory. Over one million birds, mainly swans and ducks, spend winter here.
Further cool and calm endures in our the Delta neighborhood!

A late lunch followed at the recently built Terrablue Hotel, a luxury establishment with swimming pool that provides hospitality all year round for visitors getting to and from Sulina. The Terrablue comes highly recommended by me.

This rounded off with a stroll along the Sulina promenade to the walk-in “Visitors Centre”, a tourist information bureau run by Julia Pascale. This bureau provides complete set-ups for all local activities, such as boat rides, bird watching and other outdoor activities, as well as hotels and general accommodation to suit all budgets. Make this your first destination when you arrive in Sulina. For this and more, see Unique Au Monde 

For further information about hotels, activities, boat rides and much more – make your way directly to this tourist friendly and very informative bureau by the Sulina shoreline

Our group visited the Expozitia Sulina Veche museum with its distinct windmill facade. As water, sailing and military matters are paramount to this area, it was interesting to finally confirm that Sulina, from a maritime perspective, plays a significant part in naval history. It was also informative to learn that people of varying nationalities have passed by and stayed over the centuries, thus making this town, as from two hundred years ago, an additional international transitory destination stop. If proof were needed, see the nearby cemetery where one can find headstones of mostly military-related persons from all over Europe, including England.

The very commendable …….. Museum

There is much hidden mystery to this final resting place. According to a record from 1922 there were 24 English people and six Hungarians interred here. I can only assume they must have been sailors or ship labourers of some kind.

Also it was interesting to discover that Sir Charles Hartley (1825-1915), a civil engineer who worked at the Suez Canal, touched base in Sulina. Due to his extensive work mapping the longest river in western Europe, he became known as “The Father of the Danube”. There is a modest statue of him between the Duna Administration office and the main and very atmospheric central St. Alexander and St Nicholas Orthodox Cathedral.

Local hospitality often comes with splendid fish dishes

Finally, a delightful fish supper at the Class House and Restaurant was accompanied by splendid choral singing from the local Ukrainian community. So, with much cheer, we were able to look back on a distinct day in which we had achieved much.

Heading out towards Romania’s most eastern point and the Black Sea
Seagulls – the Black Sea and Ukraine in the far background

The next day was equally monumental as we made our way to a small motorboat and cruised at considerable speed from the gentle River Duna climate to the rugged and windswept Black Sea itself. This took us past lighthouses and the Romania-Ukraine borderline to uninhabited Nova Zemlya, which is also known as K Island and is a few kilometres offshore, with Ukraine in distant view. We could not step out onto the island itself but were permitted to anchor a few meters away, from where we noted scenery more rugged altogether than the sedate delta, with birds such as seagulls and general wildlife. Riding the waves back fortunately took us through calmer waters, meaning we were fit for lunch a short while afterwards at the Marea Neagra Restaurant. Once again, this is another pleasing locale that also faces the scenic riverside and delivered us heaps and heaps more fish!
Local folk dancers provide delightful entertainment during lunch-hour

This delightful repast came with local folk-dancers before our afternoon sortie took us to the backstreets of the town where roads cease to exist and sand and shingle walkways lead to the Sulina market hall.

The - Orthodox Church – I would love to also return when renovation work is completed.

Some of the ageing wooden architecture blended in wonderfully with the environment, though sad to say various churches and public buildings are in obvious need of maintenance. In particular the enchanting St. Alexander and St. Nicolas Orthodox Cathedral is high on atmosphere but low on repairs. It would be wonderful to see this mesmerising place of worship back to its original form, as it would much else here.
General atmosphere at the —– Cemetery

Local academic Valentin Lavric then took us to the Cosmopolitan Cemetery, a remarkable shrine in a desolate area between the town and the Black Sea. It was remarkable to pick up on further local history at this memorial site with its significant number of resting people of different nationalities and mainly from the 19th century.

Remarkably, there is an English couple and they are known as the Sulina Romeo and Juliet. William Webster and Margaret Anne Pringle were aged 25 and 23 respectively when they both died in unknown circumstances in 1868. I am yet to dig deeper into this matter – and perhaps discover the Shakespeare connection. There must be an answer somewhere.

Did this vessel really sail in from so far?

The Duna Delta region provides a mixture of additional cultures on top of the predominant Romanians, with Ukrainian, Lipovan, Greek, Bulgarian, Turkish and Macedonian minorities living there too.

Our last supper bought an end to this remarkable promotional press trip. The following day at sunrise we all caught the early morning ferry, this time upstream back to the mainland at Tulcea before going our separate ways around the country. This was an extraordinary time away, hosted in a unique one-off region of Europe. The Duna Delta is one of the least inhabited regions of temperate Europe. About 20,000 people live on the Romanian side, of whom a quarter are in Sulina.

The Sulina Press Trip Committee

We all received very good impressions. Getting there can be a real effort, as it was for me by train from Budapest via Bucharest, but it was definitely worthwhile. My general overall notion is, yes it’s “far away”, but a great place. Transylvania, half-way between Budapest and the delta, may seem remote enough, but press on to Tulcea and Sulina and you have really left the rest of Europeway behind. A delightful time awaits with the river people who can introduce you to a whole new way of life in a spirit of coolness and calm.

Constanța – the Riviera Capital – and my first stop before the Delta.
This is the famous deluxe Art Nouveau Casino which will be re-opened soon.

Getting there takes considerable time. The first step is to get yourself to Bucharest. From there it’s either slow trains or buses 300 kilometers to Tulcea. Some connections go via Constanța, which is the capital of the Romanian Riviera and makes a comfortable break in lengthy travel. Other than that, persevere with the local transport before your eventual arrival. When in Tulcea, check out the ferry itineraries that are easy to come across whilst walking along the coastal promenade, as there are many options. Speedboats can also take you directly to Sulina. Other itineraries will take you to the sleepier, lesser known areas such as to Mali Island, a tranquil setting and once again really away from it all. Then for next time, I was told often enough to go to Plaja Sfântu Gheorghe, which translates as St. George. This is even more peaceful than Sulina, and I will make my eventual way there when it comes to another visit.
Sulina shoreline at night – with strong red lighting on one side and green on the other.
This is in order to help ships orientate themselves by this immediate area.

Alexander York
Budapest & Beyond Blog